LAMP ASSEMBLY, LEFT REAR - Connector C414 Details - 2013 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Parking, Rear and License Lamps - Wiring Diagram 3 - 2013 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Parking, Rear and License Lamps - Wiring Diagram 2 - 2013 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Parking, Rear and License Lamps - Wiring Diagram 1 - 2013 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Let me know what works for you or what I can explain better.I presume you have disconnected all lamp assembly (left, right, license) connectors, replaced the blown fuse, then reconnected lamp connectors one-by-one, in an attempt to isolate and determine which lamp assembly is shorted? It's far easier to just cut it back until you reach clean copper to solder to. You can shine it up with sandpaper, but that's a long, tedious process. If that applies to this wire, do the same thing by cutting away as much as has become stiff, or if you see a dull rust-colored wire. That four inches must be cut away, then new pieces of the same diameter spliced in. With overheated switches, the first four inches of those two wires will have become hardened from the heat and solder won't adhere to that. Be sure the wire is nice and shiny copper. You can't get a more solid electrical connection than by soldering. The plug is only there to facilitate installation on the assembly line, and if you need to replace it from damage. This failure is not common, but we do run into it once in a while.Ī way to guarantee this won't happen again that you might consider is to cut that wire off at the connector, then solder it to the terminal on the lamp housing. That's something you can't do with sealed switches.Ĭheck the connector on the other side to see if similar damage is occurring. In the case of your tail light, (thank you for the dandy photos), I would be satisfied with simply scrubbing the overheated terminal clean and shiny. I can describe that a lot better when and if that day comes.Ī required part of the repair for overheated switches must include replacing that switch because the pair of internal contacts have also been overheated and have developed resistance. On those switches, it is common to just cut out the two overheated terminals and the plastic connector body around those two terminals, then replace them individually with universal terminals. This commonly happens to ignition switches, headlight switches, and heater fan switches on all car brands. That heat degrades the connection which leads to more resistance and more heat, until you see the results. Current flowing through that resistance causes heat to build up. This is caused by a less-than-perfect electrical connection that results in a little electrical resistance. This has nothing to do with the fuses, so don't waste your time there. I have pictures to show the #6 pin terminal (ground). I am purchasing a new tail lamp socket housing and a new wire connector but want to be safe this problem is fixed before proceeding. Any suggestions on what to check so it doesn’t happen again. Or ground received some hot power to it? I took a light circuit tester and clamped to a good ground on car and proved the pins and they are all getting power and the proper signal to them when tested, meaning the bulb flashing on tester when each pin was probed and the appropriate signal switches on etc, I never checked fuses yet or relays to determine why the ground pin got hot. The question to you is, what could have made this happen, usually a short? The left signal was flashing twice as fast so it led me to a ground issue which I was right. I took another look at the connector to the housing unit and harness and noticed the ground pin is burned and is only half the height as other pins now. I changed the bulbs, and it didn’t fix the problem. Hi, I seen another fiat 500x posted on your site describing a left rear bulb out issue and I am in a very close situation.ĭrivers rear side taillight, back up light and turn signal all went out at same time few days ago.
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